Day Whatever, Fernie to Whitefish, to Columbia Falls, Part 1

Our goofy routing and rerouting is getting to be a bit befuddling, but we continue making progress (I think).

An early morning departure from the B&B in Eureka was a welcome way to start the day – much better to be riding than sitting around eating quiche and sitting around a table with awkward conversation!  We shoved off at about 6:30, long before anyone in the place was moving.  But the sun was just starting to make its way over the hills to our east.  It would be a while before it reached and warmed us on the valley floor, though.  It was a chilly 42 degrees (back to US system) and we wore layers since it would be hot soon.

Dillon Lake, south of Eureka

Today’s journey continues south as we skirt the western edge of Glacier Nat’l Park, through Whitefish and to Columbia Falls to meet up with our originally planned route.  We are riding Montana Hwy. 93, which is the road designated as the cycling route for the biking folks, but frankly it is an awful road to ride.  The problem is not the surface, which is mostly relatively good but in places bad, but rather the fact that there is no shoulder whatsoever.  The white line on the side of the road borders soft gravel and often a 4 inch edge.  Taking much of the lane isn’t much of an option, since the posted speed limit is 70 and that seems to be about what cars go.  So we just rode super carefully, with Lorie keeping a constant eye in her mirror and letting me know what was coming from behind.

Happily, almost all the drivers were courteous and gave us enough of room.  There is the random driver who for whatever reason doesn’t give any room, but they were few and far between.  Still, when Lorie’s eyes are always behind and mine are always on the 3 inch white stripe that I’m trying to ride on, it doesn’t give much opportunity to see the countryside.  That’s a shame, because it is very pretty up here.

Narrow shoulder and speed limit 70.  Argh...

The day grew hot fast and our ride to Whitefish was about 60 miles with about 2,500 feet gained vertical (rollers the entire way without a flat bit of road).  By the time we rolled into Whitefish it was in the high 80s and we had stripped down to our lightest riding kit.  It was well before noon, and coffee and food were in order!

Loula’s Café was just the place – it was crowded so it must be good.  Whitefish looks like a great place to live and visit.  The ski hill looks down on the town and the lake and the town has done a lot to maintain a very pleasant atmosphere.  

Food

The food at Loula’s hit the spot but we still had another 15 miles or so to Columbia Falls and the temperature was going up rapidly.  The road from Whitefish to Columbia Falls was busy but had wide shoulders.  We have reservations at yet another B&B and had been debating whether we should drop our bags at the B&B and ride up to the west entrance to Glacier to go as far as we could.  But riding in 98 – 100 degree heat in the last 15 miles made the decision for us: forget it!

But as always, Lorie had a plan B.  That’ll be on the next blog, Columbia Falls, Part 2.